That ist the problem.
Remove, yes.
But why disconnect?
Look at my pictures.
Why do you always have to learn the hard way?

Your pictures don't look like the same compressor.
The two gas lines are not flexible and limit the movement of the compressor. I needed to rotate the compressor in order to get space for the sump to get out.

Removed all liners. What a mess. I shouldn't have used a head gasket repair fluid. O rings were all bad. I'm going to clean everything.

This is the compressor of the twingo, there are different kinds.

No Problem.
Remove the screws and pull it downwards.
Never mind the rigid lines, at the other end they are flexible.

I tried. It didn't go down enough. Maybe I had to use more force.

I bought this oil pan gasket:

http://ows-cdn.tecdoc.net/ajusa/home.jsp...f097891e7e

Do you think I can Use it instead of putting a sealant, I had a white kind of flexible sealant when I removed the pan. This one is made of cork.

---

I mean Ajusa 59001500

I think that you can use it.
I would apply Hylomar additionally, and if it was only to fix the seals slightly so that they don't move when you mount the pan.

Thanks, can anyone explain me those goetze unclear piston rings instruction drawings?

1. Correct assembly of the oil ring(s), especially the orientation of the gaps.
2a. Correct orientation of the oil scraper ring especially up/down orientation, very important.
2b. Do NOT overstretch the rings while mounting them. This is not so easy because they loose their circular shape when you expand them. Hence the special pliers.
But you can do without them, just be very carefull.
3. Check vertical gap of the compression ring. If you ask me, that only makes sense if you reuse the piston.

1. so what is the correct assembly? what do a, b, c drawings mean? They are all the same drawings but a has a yellow paint in it.
What do the top, middle and bottom rings ressemble?
And what do we see on the right?
The oil ring upper part and bottom part are actually connected together like this:
2a. I don't understand what all those 4 columns mean. The rings are marked with a top sign, so I don't understand the need for the orientation diagram. The scrapper ring doesn't have a gap, it's one unit with a spring.
like that: http://www.federalmogul.com/en-US/OE/Bra...ductId=704
2b. this I understood.
3. This I also understand that I should use a feeler gauge
and it shouldn't reach more than half the groove.

---

I think I got number 1, there are 2 different types, it's either the left side with 2 oil rings and an expansion ring with a gap, or the right side which I got, which is a complete unit.

Yes, this is a universal scheme, so they show all kind of piston rings.

I bought Glyco 01-4137/4 STD big end bearings for the c3g engine.
They are wider than the originals and it feels a little step when I run my finger between the two halves.
What do you think?
https://www.fmmotorparts.co.uk/catalogue...nd_id=2451

You can't just simply buy new bearings.
Please read the manual very carefully about every single step.
You have to measure the radial play with Plastigauge https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastigauge
and the axial play with a feeler gauge.
I don't know why you are doing all this stuff.
Just reassemble the engine and you're done.

Because they have scratches over them, and I thought it's better to have new ones if it's already opened.