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C3G engine head removal - Twingo 95
I mean scrap the car.
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Just drive it.
Some things get better after running in.
Even if you were not succesfull, you've lernt a lot, and if it is that you should not try to overhaul a C3G engine.
Geteiltes Wissen ist doppeltes Wissen
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Here is a very good article on whole overhaul of the c3g:

http://forum-auto.caradisiac.com/pole-te...554706.htm

You can also see here the part that caused me troubles when assembling the oil pump.

http://aws-cf.caradisiac.com/prod/mesima...CF0270.jpg
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What do you know. Car runs fine, even with the low compression on 2 and 3. Maybe it was always like this. The gas in the coolant doesn't seem to be there anymore
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I only have a little leak from the oil pan lip. And the fuel gauge still blinks. But those are small problems. Is there any adjustment need to be done to the idle speed? It seems a little too low.
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You cannot adjust it but it is important to initialize the idle control stepper motor.
Disconnect the battery and reconnect it.
Switch on the ignition, do NOT start. Listen to the sound of stepper motor. Its only a few seconds. Now you may start the engine.
Geteiltes Wissen ist doppeltes Wissen
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I found the problem of the fuel gauge to be a bad connection in the connector of the cable in the fuel pump side. If connector is disconnected you will get the flashing red light.
I still have very low rpm when engine is cold and I don't know what could be the problem.
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The problem is not low idle speed but bad engine run when engine is cold and hard to cold start the engine and sometimes engine can stall when depressing the gas pedal . I'm going to replace the fuel filter.
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U should check valve clearance and ckp sensor too.
Fuel filter is crucial in higher loads.
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Yes, it didn't help. I can now understand the problem better:
When engine is cold, It's hard to start it up and I need to press the gas a little to start it and keep it running. If I press the gas too much it won't start or die.
Then, when on higher speed, If I press the gas too much the engine gets very jerky, sometimes it stalls when depressing the gas, even in high speed. When the engine is warm, everything is ok. What do you think is wrong? valve clearance was just set after putting back the head. CNP sensor was also cleaned. I have another new one I can put if you think it may help.
I think maybe something in the injection system is disconnected or malfunctioned.
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Ignition parts are new?
After every battery disconnection there is a procedure.
You left ignition on for 60 s before you start.
Then wait for constant idle.
The rest could be everything. Broken gasket in the exhaust pipe, weak pump,wrong valve clearance,weak battery/bad ground cable.
Normally,the start should be quick within a second.
Plugged pipes in the crankcase ventilation, corroded fuses in engine compartment.
Finally,you mentioned compression issues.
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The car has a new starter, a new battery, new gaskets and head bolts, new rings, new big end bearings, a new water pump, a new serpentine belt, a new tension pulley, new spark plugs, new radiator, new overflow reservoir cap, a new fuel filter, new transmission oil.

I'm going to try this procedure, but I never had such issues before, after disconnecting the battery, and I have this car for 12 years.
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Distributor and distributor arm is coked very often .
Electrical shorts are visible in there also.
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I fixed it. It was the temp sensor connector for the ignition. It was torn before and I soldered it but the soldering broke. I resoldered it again and all works.
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You were right cooldriver. Also Distributor cap contacts have corrosion on them.
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Es bedanken sich: Broadcasttechniker


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