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C3G engine head removal - Twingo 95
#76
(20.09.2018, 12:41)Broadcasttechniker schrieb: You can do that, but that won't remove a broken O-ring nor would that replace ist with a new one.
I agree with you if you do not want to remove the oil pan without a reason.
Check why it is not possible to push the liners right down to the block.
Is the feeling springy or solid when you try to do that?

No, it felt firm and not spongy.

If I need to put a new O-ring, can't I remove the liner from above, put a new o-ring on it, and put it back from above?
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#77
Theoretically this could work.
But i don't know whether that works in real life.
With the respective pistons in the top dead center, but low in the liner you could be able to acces or at least inspect the places in question.
Changing or adding the O-ring should also work.
I would not go further than exposing the small end bearing.
The moment the oil scraper ring slips out of the liner you've lost.
Or better said, you've won the oilpan dismantling.
Imho there is no space to refit the ring.
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#78
So it means I can press a piston into a liner from above but I cannot put a liner over a piston from above because I can't reach the rings to compress them, right?
So I must first remove the oil pan, remove the piston from above, then I put the liner and then press the piston from above.
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#79
And take a look page 57 of the manual.
Its not good at all to overhaul without it.
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#80
When I did this, I had to remove all 4 liners WITH THE PISTONS IN THEM.
I did NOT pull the pistons, they always were in place.
Keep the piston/liner assy in their place, i.e. 1 in 1, 2 in 2 and so forth.
There is a left right, so don't turn them 180 degrees.
Read the manual!

I think there will "only" be debris/rust on the liner seating.
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#81
I found out the liners can't go out from above when the piston is in place, the liners are narrower then the piston at their bottom. I most push the pistons from the bottom after removing the big ends.
What do you think I should replace with new if I'm already taking pistones out?
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#82
No.
In this case I'd replace the motor with an other one.
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#83
Great video:

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#84
I wish I have watched it before:

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#85
Its good for you because its in English, but there are no differences between the video and the shop manual.
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#86
Well I had to remove the AC compressor too because it blocked the sump, and lost the gas with an explosion near my face. Look what was inside the sump. One of the liners o rings torn apart.
https://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/19/86/13/42/15377010.jpg
[Bild: twingo-23192651-so8.jpg]
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#87
As far as I know you don't have to open the cooling circuit when removing the AC compressor.
Look at my pictures. But I have to admit that it was the D7F http://www.twingotuningforum.de/thread-6...pid8426590
If you lost the gas "with an explosion" make shure that you top up compressor oil.
As for the pictures.
Please don't attach them.
Please don't host them outside the forum.
Please upload them with this internal tool https://pics.twingotuningforum.de/
I fixed the picture with the sump.
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#88
Maybe in the d engine it's possible. There was no way I could take the c3g sump without moving down the compressor. It was blocked. Regarding the picture, l tried to upload here but it's limited to 500kb.
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#89
No, its not limited.
Please, use the link supplied https://pics.twingotuningforum.de/
Why couldn't you move the compressor?
I must admit that Idon't know the C3G engine with AC.
This was one http://www.twingotuningforum.de/thread-7920.html
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#90
I moved the compressor only after I disconnected it from the gas lines. The compressor blocks the sump. I can show you if you want.
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