I mean number 5 nuts.
What do you mean pipe clamps should be hand tighten only? I used tools for everything.
You mean cranking so the engine gets fuel and then connect the ignition?
I mean number 5 nuts.
What do you mean pipe clamps should be hand tighten only? I used tools for everything.
You mean cranking so the engine gets fuel and then connect the ignition?
Number 5 has no torque, you turn till the end of the winding,
so the nut is about 1 cm on it.
Follow your instincts, there is nothing difficult about it.
Ignition on because of starting problems and internal throttle calibration.
Man, putting back the spring and nut for the exhaust pipe was one of the hardest things I have ever done, I needed to use a magnet stick to get the nut to the bolt.
(11.06.2018, 07:29)Broadcasttechniker schrieb: The distributor doesn't have to be fineadjusted because the timing doesn't depend on its position.
So I would remove it.
Does the orientation of the shaft notch matters when I put it back? because It can be put in 180 degrees difference, can't it?
This is the arrangement I have, and I have spark on each wire, do I still need to check the distributor cover? I tried to rotate the finger 180 degrees, but it only goes in all the way only in one position so this is not the issue, what else can I test? do you know the compression values for this model?
New distributor arm new distributor ?
Check all connections , control device, ground cable, Map-Sensor, Lambda .....
Compression is 11 bar. Valve clearance checked, outlet 0,2 mm, inlet 0,15 mm?
Firing order is 1-3-4-2.
Switch on ignition, then wait 60 seconds before starting.
Another way is to push gas pedal down for a very short time while cranking the engine.
Always check for wet plugs. Tubes all clean and connected,
Map sensor tube also very important.